By Donna Covrett

As a former pastry chef in several fine establishments, I spent a lot of time trying to create a memorable finish to a dining experience. Dessert is the lingering note in the culinary symphony, sensorial, sensual and seductive to the palate, nose and eye. Our motto in the pastry kitchen of The Palace, a 4-star restaurant, was no dessert left the kitchen unless it announced "Bite Me"!

A few years ago, I was interviewed by CityBeat before the opening of our restaurant, Arboreta. There I was, in bold type, saying, "I want them to moan and groan and leave puddles in their seats," in response to a question concerning my intended impact on diners for the dessert menu I was creating.

Well, I meant it! Though in my earnest enthusiasm and passion for my craft, I didn't realize the PR value of that quote. Diners came in by the busload with hopes of orgasmic experiences, and often just for the desserts. It occurred to me that a great dessert was not only the punctuation to an ambrosial evening out, it often served as the prelude to a sweet little something: later on: food as foreplay.

The sight of our guests, reduced to guttural moans and groans, prompted inquiries from the staff: Does this mean a bigger tip? Why does she want a quart of chocolate mousse and a jar of cherries to go? Can we watch?

My own questions to you, readers: What is so alluring about dessert that you will worship at the Altar of the Dietary Trinity: white flour, white sugar and saturated fat, despite the inevitable guilt and penance of added treadmill time? Where do you go for paradise on a plate or bliss in a bowl? Do you have any food-as-foreplay experiences to share?

Send me your suggestions and stories!

E-mail Donna Covrett

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